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idwns.'lolf Courses, 
bio Fields 



By 5..A.Cunr)iogf^am ancl Qcor^e D. LeoOen^^ 



'*<'jifj 







TfieCbe-MortimerCotnpany 

Hlew^orlc 



fe 



Lawns, Golf Courses, Polo Fields, 

and How to Treat Them 



By S. A. CUNNINGHAM 
Chaitman of the Green Committee of the Englewood Golf Club 



GEORGE D. LEAVENS, B. S. 
Formerly of the Department of Fertilizers, Massachusetts Agricultural Experiment Station 



Published by 

THE COE-MORTIMER COMPANY 

New York 



Copyright. 1914 
TTie Coe-Moitimer Company, N. Y. 



A" 




TRftNSFLRKCO fRO* 

MAR 28 1914 «°'*^^**^"' '"'°' 




Lawns, Golf Courses, Polo Fields, 

AND HOW TO TREAT THEM 

By 

S. A. CUNNINGHAM AND GEORGE D. LEAVENS 




NTIL the attempt has been made, the 
difficulties encountered in making 
good lawns, polo fields, or golf greens 
are not apparent, although liberal 
sums of money are generally expended 
for these purposes. There is, however, 
such a conflict of opinion and such a 
dearth of definite information as to 
how desirable results may be obtained, 
that it is believed that the writers' 
suggestions, based upon many years of practical experience, 
may not be unwelcome. 

No attempt is made to discuss herein details of engineering 
problems in connection with the making of golf courses and 
polo fields, other than a few remarks on the subject of drainage. 
The details of grading, levelling, tile draining, etc., should all 
be arranged by a competent engineer. The writers of this 
booklet have confined themselves strictly to matters covered by 
their own personal experience, realizing that in so doing they 
are certain to remain on safe ground and in all probability 
be of much greater assistance to their readers. 

3 



LAWNS. 

A good lawn is the first essential to a beautiful landscape 
or to attractive home grounds. The two problems commonly 
presented in this connection are : first, the improving or 
re-making of an old lawn ; second, the making of a new lawn 
from the very beginning. 




A Good Lawn may be maintained ix a Shaded Location if proper Grass 
Seeds and Fertilizers are used. 



Re- Making an Old Lawn. 

The first step is to dig out with a very slender trowel 
or stout knife, all the wxeds that infest the lawn. The best 
implement for this is an ordinary asparagus knife or cutter. 
Having removed the weeds, go over the old lawn vigorously 
with a sharp toothed iron rake, scratching the earth to a depth 
of half an inch or more. Where the old sod is vigorous and 
healthy, rake lightly ; but give severe treatment to the bare spots. 

A' sod perforator may be made by driving some good-size 
spikes through a piece of plank, and then attaching to this a 
handle from an old shovel or manure fork. The spikes should 
protrude through the plank three or four inches. By going 
over the lawn with this implement, the soil will be opened up 

4 



to receive grass seed, plant food and moisture, and yet no 
unsightly disturbance of the surface will be made. 

On a large scale (on fair greens and polo fields) the same 
or better results are obtained by using a perforating roller, to 
which reference will be made later. In case a sod perforator 
is used, it should be followed by a vigorous raking, as described 
above, and if a quantity of fine or medium fine sand can be 
obtained, this may also be raked over the lawn evenU' to the 
depth of about one-fourth inch. 

Next, broadcast The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country 
Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, at the rate of two 
and one-half to three pounds to each one hundred square feet 
of surface. The fertilizer should be mixed with an equal 
quantity of medium to coarse sand. Fine sand may be used 
when the soil is naturally coarse and open, but coarse sand is 
to be preferred wherever the soil is especially compact and 
inclined to cake. The sand should be well raked in. 

Grass seed should now be sown, carefully raked in, and 
the land thoroughly rolled. Grass seed mixtures for this 
purpose are as follows: 

First, for use on neutral or alkaline soils where Kentucky 

Blue Grass grows well. Such conditions are particularly apt 

to prevail in those parts of the country where the soil is 

underlaid by limestone deposits. Under such conditions, when 

renovating the old lawn, use the following mixture: 

Re-cleaned Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis) . . 30 lbs. 

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris) 30 lbs. 

Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera) 20 lbs. 

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina) 10 lbs. 

Wood Meadow Grass (Poa nemoralis) 10 lbs. 

Total 100 lbs. 

Apply this mixture at the rate of eighty to one hundred pounds 
per acre. (About one-fourth pound per 100 square feet.) 

Mixture Number 2. — Where acid soil conditions prevail, 
Kentucky Blue Grass will not thrive, and a different mixture 
of grass seeds must therefore be used. Acid soil conditions 

5 



prevail generally throughout most of tlie Atlantic Seaboard 
states, and the following mixtures will be found generally useful : 

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris) 50 lbs. 

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina) 25 lbs! 

Creeping Bent GrasS (Agrostis stolonifera) 25 lbs! 

Total 100 lbs. 

Sow evenly at the rate of 80 to 100 pounds per acre. (About 
one-fourth pound per 100 square feet.) 

After distributing, the seed should be lightly raked in and 
the lawn thoroughly rolled. 

Abundant moisture is necessary for the life of any lawn, 
and this will be discussed later in the remarks about "watering." 

A second application of fertilizer will be needed about 
August first to August tenth. At that time apply The Coe- 
:\Iortimer Company's Country Club Golf and Law^n Fertilizer, 
Brand A, at the rate of two and one-half to three pounds per 
hundred square feet. The fertilizer should be mixed with an 
equal quantity of sand as previously mentioned. 



Making a New Lawn. 

If the work is being conducted on a small scale, the ground 
should be well spaded up and thoroughly pulverized with a 
sharp rake. Then rake to a smooth, level surface and follow 
the same general treatment as that described for large areas. 

If large areas are to be treated, it may be necessary to 
consider carefully the matter of drainage. A competent 
engineer should be consulted and such stone drains or tile drains 
as may be needed should be put in place. The best time for 
making a lawn is from mid-summer to early September and 
if the necessary work can be accomplished so that the seed 
can be sown about August fifteenth to September tenth, the 
grass will get a good start before cold weather. 

Frequently however, for special reasons, spring seeding 
is necessary and in this case if possible, the land should be 
plowed in the fall so that the action of the frost may assist 
in pulverizing and conditioning the soil. 

7 



Whether spring seeding or summer seeding is to be 
followed, the general operations necessary for good results 
are the same. Stones and stumps, if any, should be removed. 
The entire surface should then be broken up by using a cutaway 
disc harrow, set at a sharp angle so that it will thoroughly tear 
up the old surface growth. This harrowing should be repeated 
at intervals of three or four days until all old growth is entirely 
killed out and dried up. 

The land should then be plowed to a depth of from eight 
to ten inches and it is impoi-tant to see that the plow is equipped 
with a coulter so that all old growth may be completely buried. 

After plowing, the land should be harrowed with a cutaway 
disc harrow. If the land is inclined to bake and cake, coarse 
sand should now be applied to a thickness of from one-half 
inch to an inch. This sand should be thoroughly worked into 
the soil by the subsequent harrowings with the cutaway disc 
harrow, and these harrowings should be continued at frequent 
intervals, say every four days, until the time of seeding. 

The fertilizer should now be broadcasted very evenly. 
Use The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club Golf and 
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, at the rate of two and one-half to 
three pounds per hundred square feet. (On large areas, 1300 
to 1500 pounds per acre.) At least two harrowings should 
be given after the fertilizer is applied. 

The heavy cutaway disc harrow should be followed by a 
smoothing harrow and clod crusher or leveler. It is generally 
best also, to go over the land with a roller to insure getting 
a smooth and level surface. Just before sowing the seed the 
surface of the ground should be finally prepared by going 
over it once more with a smoothing harrow. The seed should 
then be distributed evenly and worked into the soil with an 
ordinary weeder or wdth an ordinary bush harrow. This latter 
implement is made by spiking medium sized birch saplings to 
a piece of 5x5 or 6x6 timber ; but unless one is familiar 
with the construction and use of this implement, the weeder 
had better be emplo3"ed. 



The land should now receive a thorough rolling. Roll 
in several directions; at right angles, also diagonally. It is 
desirable that the soil should be well compacted at this time 
in order to re-establish capillary action. 

For seeding a new lawn, the following mixtures may be 
used. The first mixture given is suitable for use on neutral 
or slightly alkaline soils, such as we have previously referred 
to. Under these conditions use the following mixture per acre : 

Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis) 45 lbs. 

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina) 30 lbs. 

Fancy Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris) 45 lbs. 

Total, per acre 120 lbs. 

(A little over one- fourth lb. per 100 square feet.) 

Second, a mixture to be used where acid soil conditions 
exist. 

Fancy Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris) 45 lbs. 

Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera) 45 lbs. 

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina) 30 lbs. 

Total, per acre 120 lbs. 

(A little over one-fourth lb. per 100 square feet.) 

A third mixture is given for use in shady places. 

There are of course some conditions where the shade is so 

great that no grass will grow, but under conditions of moderate 

shade, the following mixture will generally prove successful. 

Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis) 35 lbs. 

Wood Meadow Grass (Poa nemoralis) 35 lbs. 

Crested Dogs'-Tail (Cynosurus cristatus) 15 lbs. 

Various-Leaved Fescue (Festuca heterophylla) 15 lbs. 

Total, per acre 100 lbs. 

(On small areas use at the rate of one-fourth lb. per 
100 square feet.) 

Clipping, Rolling and \A/atering. 

A newly seeded lawn should not be clipped the first time 
until the grass has made a good growth. Set the blades of 
the lawn mower as high as possible. Let the young grass 
grow so that the mower set in this way will just clip off the 
ends of the leaves. 

9 



After the first clipping the lawn may be clipped closely 
with the lawn mower and frequent cuttings will prove beneficial. 
If clipped frequently and the grass kept at a height of from 
one and one-half to two inches, clippings will be so fine that 
it will not be necessary to rake them off. It is particularly 
desirable to leave these fine clippings on poor or light soils ; 
on rich moist soils, the clippings may be removed by having 
a grass catcher attached to the lawn mower. This obviates 
the necessity of removing the clippings by raking. 

During the extreme hot weather of mid-summer, do not 
crop the grass too close. Burning of the roots may be in a 
measure prevented by allowing the grass to shade itself. 

Lawns should be rolled each spring as soon as the excess 
of moisture has dried out. A heavy roller is preferable, so 
that any grass roots that have been loosened by frost may 
be imbedded in the soil. The roller should be used after every 
cutting, as its continued use makes a firm and compact sod. 

Watering of lawns should preferably be done late in 
the afternoon or at night ; thus preventing the immediate 
evaporation of the water by the intense heat from the sun. 
Many lawns are seriously injured by frequent small applications 
of water. It is much better to give a lawn a thorough soaking 
once or twice a week, than to give small waterings daily. Use 
plenty of water; sufficient to wet the soil at least three inches 
deep. 

Fertilizing Lawns After They Are Established. 

After a lawn is well established it should be regularly 
fertilized with The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club 
Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, at the rate of two and 
one-half to three lbs. per one hundred square feet. (On large 
areas at the rate of 1300 lbs. per acre.) 

The first application should be made in the spring, as 
soon as 'the frost is well out of the ground, and the second 
application about the 10th of August. The fertilizer should 
be mixed with an equal weight of medium coarse sand and 
should be distributed very evenly. 

11* 




GOLF COURSES. 
Putting Greens. 

HE preparation of the soil for putting 
greens is in general the same as 
that described for lawns. Especial 
attention, however, should be given 
to the matters of draining, grading 
and leveling, and finally to very 
careful raking. 

When seeding down a new putting 
green, use from two and one-half to 
three lbs. per one hundred square feet 
of The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club Golf and Lawn 
Fertilizer, Brand A, mixed with an equal quantity of fine sand. 
This should be raked into the soil shortly before sowing the 
seed. A sandy soil is preferable for putting greens, and if 
the soil is not naturally sandy, large quantities of sand must 
be applied. 

It is necessary that the turf on a putting green should 
be composed of fine grasses, dense and low and sufficiently 
tough to stand the hardest possible use. The grass must be 
kept cut short and rolled with a light roller frequently. If 
the putting green is seeded in the spring (and it probably 
will be), a second application of fertilizer should be made 
during the latter part of June. At this time apply one and 
one-fourth lbs. per 100 square feet of The Coe-Mortimer 
Company's Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, 
mixed with an equal quantity of fine or medium fine sand as 
before. 

About the middle of August, still another application of 
the same fertilizer should be made at the rate of one and 
one-fourth lbs. per one hundred square feet of surface and as 
previously described, it is desirable that this fertilizer should 
be mixed with an equal quantity of sand. 

12 



Seed Mixtures for Putting Greens. 

Grasses of a low growing habit, of firm tough texture 
and those that will thrive upon acid soils are requii'ed for 
putting greens. A neutral or alkaline condition of the soil 
gives encouragement to the growth of clover which is especially 
to be avoided in putting greens, and it should be noted that 
the fertilizers recommended for putting greens, while especially 



A small force feed grass 
seeder made especially for 
putting greens and lawns. 




(By courtesy of Thie Excelsior 
Drill Co., Springfield, Ohio.) 



adapted to encourage the growth of the desirable grasses, are 
intended at the same time to discourage the growth of clovers. 
Probably the best mixture for putting greens is the following: 

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina) 50 lbs. 

Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera) 50 lbs. 

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris) 20 lbs. 

Total 120 lbs. 

Use this mixture at the rate of 120 lbs. per acre or at 
the rate of a little over one-fourth lb. (5 ounces) per one 
hundred square feet. 

This same grass seed mixture should be used for all 
re-seeding. When re-seeding is needed on account of bare 
spots or weak growth of grass it should be done early in the 
spring; about a week after the first application of fertilizer. 
Rake in thoroughly with a fine rake and roll immediately after 
with a heavy roller. 

13 



If further re-seeding is necessary and it generally is, in 
order to keep the greens up in first class condition, sow the 
seed the last week in August or the first week in September. 
Fall seeding may be regarded as even more important than 
the spring seeding. It should be raked in with a very fine 
rake, and the roller should follow immediately. 




"Golf Cart" an ex- 
tremely useful com- 
bination of roller and 
cart body. 

(By courtesy of The 
Excelsior Drill Co., 
Springfield, Ohio.) 



General Care of Putting Greens. 

In addition to close clipping, frequent rolling and thorough 
watering, especial attention is called to the importance of top 
dressing the greens at least three times each season as mentioned 
above. Never use stable manure of any sort on a putting 
green. It is sure to introduce quantities of weed seeds and is 
almost certain to kill out the grass in spots. In addition to 
this it is extremely unsightly and further injures the playing 
qualities of the greens. 

The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club Golf and 
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, is especially adapted for use upon 
putting greens and its proper use gives results that are 
encouraging and demonstrates that as good greens can be 
developed in the United States as in Great Britain. 

Sanding the Greens. 

Medium to fine sand should be applied to the depth of 
one-fourth inch over the entire surface of the putting greens, 
during the latter part of December or early in January. It 

15 



is desirable to apply this sand after the ground is frozen but 
before there has been a fall of snow. Do not apply any soil 
or loam as a surface dressing, using clean sand exclusively. 

Eradication of NA/orms. 

It is extremely annoying to have the putting greens 
disfigured by unsightly worm casts and the playing qualities 
of the greens are also impaired by them. To eradicate angle 
worms, use The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club Worm 
Eradicator at the rate of one-half lb. per square yard. The 
Worm Eradicator should be applied evenly over the putting 
greens and the greens flooded with water. The Worm 
Eradicator is most effective when used on a warm damp day. 
After the flooding the worms will come to the surface where 
they may be raked up, or sw^ept up and removed. One 
application of the Worm Eradicator in the spring should 
prove sufficient to keep the greens free from worms throughout 
the summer. 

Unlike many preparations for eradicating worms, our 
Country Club Worm Eradicator is not poisonous for human 
beings, although hardly pleasant to the taste. It does not 
burn the grass plants, even when used in much larger quantities 
than recommended above. We have recommended one-half lb. 
per square yard of the Country Club Worm Eradicator as 
an, economical quantity that will give good results ; but as the 
Worm Eradicator also enriches the soil and encourages the 
growth of the grass, a larger application may at times prove 
desirable. 

\A/atering. 

Putting greens should never be allowed to burn out in 
dry weather. The general remarks concerning watering lawns 
apply also to putting greens, except that as the greens are 
kept clipped very close, it is necessary to be sure that the 
-waterings penetrate to a good depth. Watering once or twice 
a week, thoroughly, and to a good depth is to be preferred 
to a light sprinkling every day. 

36 



"air 



;reens. 



Two problems are commonly presented in regard to fair 
greens. First, the improvement of old greens without plowing ; 
second, plowing and establishment of new greens. 

In renovating old greens, first remove all stones, twigs, 
sticks, dead grass, etc., and then go over the greens with a 
perforating roller, such as is illustrated herein. If clover is 
not objected to in the fair greens, the mechanical condition 
of the soil may be greatly improved and at the same time the 
land be greatly enriched by broadcasting 1300 lbs. per acre 
of The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club Golf and Lawn 
Fertilizer, Brand B. This^ fertilizer is entirely unlike the 
Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, as Brand B 
encourages the growth of clovers as well as the growth of 
grasses, while Brand A is suited to the development of grasses 
only. 

If clover is an objection in the fair greens, broadcast 
1300 lbs. per acre of The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country 
Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A. This should be 
applied after the land has been treated with the spike toothed 
roller and follov/ing this application the fair greens should be 
gone over with a cutaway' disc harrow with the discs set 
practically straight, so that they may have a slicing action 
and not a digging action. 



Combination seeder 
and weeder. A convenient 
implement for seeding fair 
greens. 

(By courtesy of Tfie Eureka 
Mower Company, Utica, 
N. Y.) 



Follow this with a thorough scarifying, by means of an 
ordinary spring tooth weeder and then broadcast evenly one of 
the grass seed mixtures given on page 19. After distribut- 

17 




ing the grass seed, go over the greens again with the weeder to 
thoroughly incoi-porate the seed, then roll thoroughly with a 
heavy roller, which for this purpose should have no spike tooth 
attachment. 



New Fair Greens. 

If new fair greens are to be/ established, follow the same 
general directions as given for the preparation of lawns, but in 
seeding down, bear in mind that The Coe-Mortimer Company's 
Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, should be 
used when clover is not desired and that the Country Club 
Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand B, should be used when clover 
is desired. The objection to clover of course is its more or 
less slippery character. The advantage claimed for it is that 
it remains green and presents an attractive appearance If 
clipped close, even through extremely dry weather. 

1300 to 1500 lbs. per acre of one of the above fertilizers 
should be well worked into the soil as directed under Preparation 
of Lawns. The directions there given for distributing and 
working the seed into the soil apply equally well to fair greens. 

Grass Seed Mixtures for Fair Greens. 

First, a mixture where clover is desired. 

Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis) 30 lbs. 

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris) 40 lbs. 

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina) 10 lbs. 

Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera) 10 lbs. 

White Clover (Tri folium repens) 10 lbs. 

Total, per acre 100 lbs. 

Second, a mixture where clover is not desired. 

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris) 40 lbs. 

Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera) 20 lbs. 

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina) 20 lbs. 

Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratensis) 10 lbs. 

Canadian Blue Grass (Poa compressa) 10 lbs. 

Total, per acre 100 lbs. 

19 



Subsequent Care of Fair Greens. 

Whether the work in hand is the renovation of old greens 
or the making of new greens, 500 lbs. per acre of The Coe- 
Mortimer Company's Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, 
Brand A, or Brand B (as indicated by conditions) should be 
applied about the first of September of the first season. Each 
subsequent year, 1,000 lbs. per acre of one of the above 
fertilizers should be applied in the spring, as soon as the frost 
is well out of the ground. The second application in September, 
will probably not be required after the first year; though on 
the fair greens, if the growth of the grass is insufficient, 
indicating lack of plant food, an application of 500 lbs. per 
acre of one of the Country Club Fertilizers should 'be made 
about the first of September. 

Both spring and fall applications of the fertilizer should 
be mixed with an equal weight of medium sand. The grass 
should be kept well rolled and clipped during the entire season. 



20 



POLO FIELDS. 

N MAKING a polo field, special em- 
phasis should be laid upon drainage^ 
leveling and grading. A competent 
engineer should be employed to make 
"assurance doubly sure" concerning 
these points. The general directions 
given for plowing and fitting the soil 
for lawns, apply also to polo fields, 
except that in addition to the work 
indicated for lawns, sub-soil plowing 
is generally desirable for polo fields. 

After plowing with the turning plow, follow in the same 
furrows with the sub-soil plow; the object being to loosen the 
sub-soil without bringing any of it to the surface. In sub-soil 
plowing, however, great care must be taken not to disturb any 
drains that may have been laid near the surface of the field. 





The Club House at the Piping Rock Club, Locust Vallet, L. I. 



Special precautions should be observed in harrowing, to 
be sure that the ground is finely pulverized and that all old 
growth is entirely killed out. Mid-summer seeding, about 
August 15th to September 1st is generally preferable, as this 

21 



gives ample time during the early part of the season for 
thorough preparation of the land. 

In seeding down a new polo field, apply 1500 lbs. per 
acre of The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club Golf and 
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A. This should be worked into the 
soil thoroughly with the cutaway disc harrow and great pains 
should be taken to see that the fertilizer is distributed evenly. 

The grass seed m,ay be distributed either by hand or by 
means of a combination weeder and seeder, such as is illustrated 
herein. After the seed has been distributed and thoroughly 
worked into the soil, the field should of course be rolled 
repeatedly with a heavy roller. 




Looking across the Polo Fields at the Piping Rock Club, 
Locust Valley, L. I. 



Subsequent treatment of the polo field consists of the 
application of 700 lbs. per acre of Country Club Golf and 
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, the last week in June, and the 
application of a similar amount of the same fertilizer about 
the middle of August. In both cases the fertilizer should be 
mixed with an equal weight of medium sand. 

Old polo fields should be treated as follows: As soon as 
the frost is out of the ground in the spring, apply 1,000 lbs. 
per acre of The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club Golf 
and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, mixed with an equal quantity 

22 



of medium sand. The last week in June, apply the same 
fertilizer at the rate of 600 lbs. per acre, mixed with an equal 
weight of sand. 

When the soil on old polo fields is badly compacted, great 
benefit will be derived from the use of the perforating roller, 
similar to the one herein illustrated. This serves to perforate 




Perforating Roller for Fair Greens, Polo Fields and Lawns. The depth of 

perforation is regulated accurately. 

(By courtesy of R. W. Whitehurst Company, Norfolk, Va.) 



the sod and permits circulation of both air and water in the soil, 
and prevents the hard baked and caked condition that is so 
objectionable on a good playing field. 

Supplementary seeding at the rate of from 60 to 80 lbs. 
per acre, of the grass seed mixture mentioned on page 25, will 

23 



be found helpful, especially on bare and weak spots. Customary 
care in regard to replacing sods that have been torn up in 
play, and customary frequent rolling should of course receive 
careful attention. 

About the middle of August apply the same fertilizer 
again, at the rate of 600 lbs. per acre mixed with an equal 
weight of medium sand. The grass on polo fields should be 
cut close and rolled frequently with a heavy roller. Polo fields 
in general will be benefited by an application of about one- 
fourth inch of fine to medium sand during the latter part of 
December or early in January. 



Grass Seeds for Polo Fields. 

It is absolutely necessary that the turf on a polo field 
should be both tough and elastic. It is also necessary that 
clover should be excluded, as during dry weather, when the 
fields are apt to become hard, clover gives a slippery surface. 

The Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, 
recommended above for polo fields is specially made to 
discourage the growth of clover. 

It is also important to avoid the use of lime on land 
intended for polo fields. Quick lime, hydrated lime, carbonate 
of lime, wood ashes and ground bone are all objectionable, 
because they encourage the growth of clover. 

The following combination of grass seeds gives a firm, 
tough and elastic sod and these grasses are especially benefited 
by the use of the Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, 
Brand A. 

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris) 50 lbs. 

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina) 50 lbs. 

Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera) 20 lbs. 

Total 120 lbs. 

This is the correct quantity for one acre and should be 
distributed evenly. 

25 



Eradication of Clover. 

In cases where polo fields have become infested with clover, 
especially vigorous measures are necessary to discourage its 
growth. In such cases we recommend The Coe-Mortimer 
Company's Polo Field Special, to be applied, 1,000 lbs. per 
acre early in the spring, as soon as the frost is well out of 
the ground and 1,000 lbs. per acre late in August. The fertilizer 
should be mixed with an equal weight of sand in both cases 
and distributed evenly. 

When the Country Club Polo Field Special is used, no 
other fertilizer should be employed. Once clover is established, 
its eradication is at best a slow process, but by the persistent 
use of the Country Club Polo Field Special, the desired effect 
will ultimately be obtained. 

This fertilizer is so made as to discourage the growth 
of clover and at the same time to encourage the growth of 
such grasses as Redtop, Rhode Island Bent Grass and Creeping 
Bent Grass, all of which will thrive under its application. This 
is a very powerful and concentrated fertilizer and special care 
should be taken to emphasize the necessity for even distribution. 

TURF TENNIS COURTS. 

The instructions given for the preparation of lawns and 
putting greens apply to the preparation of turf tennis courts. 
New courts should receive three lbs. per one hundred square 
feet of The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club Golf and 
Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, prior to seeding. The fertilizer should 
be mixed with fine sand and thoroughly Worked into the soil. 

Later in the season, about the middle of June, apply 
The Coe-Mortimer Company's Country Club Golf and Lawn 
Fertilizer, Brand A, at the rate of one and one-fourth lbs. per 
one hundred square feet. Late in August repeat this treatment. 

Old turf courts should receive three lbs. per one hundred 
square feet of surface of Country Club Golf and Lawn 
Fertilizer, Brand A, as soon as the frost is out of the ground 

26 



and should receive the same applications in June and in August 
as mentioned above. On old courts the spring application 
should be mixed with an equal weight of fine sand, as should 
the two later applications. Close clipping, fi^equent rolling 
and watering are essential to good courts. 

Grass Seed for Turf Tennis Courts. 

A fine, close springy turf is the prime essential and under 

average conditions is best obtained by using the following 

mixture : 

Rhode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis canina) 40 lbs. 

Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis stolonifera) 50 lbs. 

Re-cleaned Redtop (Agrostis vulgaris) 30 lbs. 

Total 120 lbs. 

This indicates the quantity to be used for one acre, and 
smaller areas should be seeded in the same proportion. 

Fertilizers for Lawns, Golf Courses and Polo Fields. 

To produce and maintain a fine elastic turf of uniform 
color and even texture requires fertilizers made with especial 
care. Comparatively few of the lawn fertilizers that have 
heretofore been offered have been prepared with due regard 
to the special problems presented. Unlike fertilizers for hay, 
the fertilizers for lawns must contain plant food in forms 
that are not only available to the plants, but also in forms 
that extend this available action over a considerable period 
of time. 

In other words, correctly made lawn fertilizers should feed 
the grass plants gradually but constantly. There must be 
no intermittent period when the grass plants do not receive 
suitable nourishment. 

Foi- six years past The Coe-Mortimer Company has been 
making Country Club Golf, Lawn and Polo Field Fertilizers 
for a select private trade. These fertilizers are made in 
accordance with the formulae of the Chairman of the Green 



Committee of the Englewood Golf Club, Mr. S. A. Cunningham, 
who has perfected Country Club brands, after many years of 
experimental work. 

Associated with Mr. Cunningham in the development and 
preparation of these fertilizers, is Mr. George D. Leavens, 
formerly of the Massachusetts State Experiment Station and 
for over fifteen years a specialist in grass fertilization. 

The results from the use of Country Club brands have 
been uniformly superior and the demand for them has become 
increasingly urgent. They are now offered generally to those 
buyers who realize that fertilizers of high quality are absolutely 
essential to the growing of good grass. 

For many years stable manure was highly regarded as 
a lawn dressing. The objections to its use are however, obvious. 
When it is used as a top dressing the lawns so treated resemble 
a barnyard for several months each year. Large quantities 
of weed seeds are introduced by the stable manure and these 
weeds can be gotten rid of only at a great expense. 

Furthermore many grass plants are frequently smothered 
and killed out by small lumps of manure. This results in the 
lawn having a spotted or uneven appearance. 

Said the late Luke J. Doogue, for many years Superin- 
tendent of the Boston Public Grounds Department : "Strange 
as it may seem, many good lawns have been ruined by being 
given a heavy application of manure year after year." 
Country Club Golf, Lawn and Polo Field Fertilizers are offered 
to discriminating buyers as being the highest grade fertilizers 
obtainable for the purposes indicated. 

Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A. 

This special fertilizer is specially manufactured for use 
upon lawns, putting greens, polo fields, fair greens and tennis 
courts where clover and blue grass are not desired. The same 
soil conditions that favor the development of clover also favor 
the development of blue grass and while blue grass in itself 
may be desirable for certain purposes, it should be constantly 
borne in mind that if the soil is so treated as to encourage 

29 



the growth of blue grass, then the risk of encouraging an 
abnormal growth of clover will be very great. 

Clover seed will lie dormant in the soil for from 25 to 40 
years waiting for favorable conditions to cause its germination 
and growth. Inasmuch as perfect lawns, polo fields, putting 
greens and grass tennis courts can be made without the use 
of blue grass or clover, it is apparent that Country Club Golf 
and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand A, possesses a wide range of 
usefulness. 

It encourages the growth of Redtop, Creeping Bent Grass, 
Rhode Island Bent Grass, and all grasses belonging to this 
family, feeding them abundantly and continuously, at the same 
time discouraging the growth of clover. 

Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand B. 

This special fertilizer is intended for use upon lawns and 
fair greens where clover and blue grass are desired. It should 
never be used upon putting greens or polo fields or upon grass 
tennis courts, as the presence of clover in any of these is 
always objectionable. 

There are, however, occasions when individual taste or 
preference call for lawns containing a large amount of fine 
white clover. Also there are occasions when clover is desired 
in fair greens, particularly on extremely light and dry soils. 
Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Brand B, will 
encourage the growth of clover and also encourage the growth 
of Kentucky Blue Grass and is intended td be used only when 
these results are desired. 

Country Club Polo Field Special. 

As indicated above. Country Club Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, 
Brand A, is the correct fertilizer to use on polo fields under 
normal conditions. In cases where polo fields are already badly 
infested with clover, more radical treatment may be necessary. 

When polo fields contain a large amount of clover, the 
Country Club Polo Field Special Fertilizer should be used. 

30 



This brand is so made as to act even more vigorously than 
the Golf and Lawn Fertilizer, Bi'and A, and brings about soil 
conditions extremely unfavorable to the growth of clover and 
also greatly encourages the growth of the fine and tough 
grasses, thus aiding these to choke out the clover. 

For special directions for use, see remarks on "Eradication 
of Clover." 

Country Club \A/orm Eradicator. 

Frequentl}^ common earth worms or "angle worms" 
become a decided nuisance in lawns or putting greens. Not 
only do the worm casts disfigure the greens, but they also 
injure the playing qualities. 

To rid greens or lawns of worms, apply Country Club 
Worm Eradicator at the rate of one-half pound per square 
yard, spreading evenly over the green and then flooding the 
green with water. If possible the application should be made 
on a warm damp day early in May. The worms will come 
to the surface where they may be raked up or swept up and 
removed. One application each season is usually sufficient, but 
should the worms again become troublesome, a second application 
may be made about the middle of September. 

Especial attention is called to the fact that Country Club 
Worm Eradicator is non-poisonous to human beings, and is 
decidedly beneficial to the grass. It has a direct but slow 
fertilizing action which adds materially to its value. 



It is well to bear in mind that in purchasing Country 
Club Golf, Lawn and Polo Field Fertilizers, you are securing 
fertilizers that have been thoroughly and repeatedly tested and 
have proved their merit by the results that they have given. 
All experimental work has been done for you. 

Combining as they do, the latest teachings of agricultural 
science with long practical experience, these fertilizers cannot 
fail to meet with your appreciation and approval. 

31 



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